Ireland by Campervan: Ultimate 3 Week Coastal Road Trip

Ireland, known for its lush landscapes, vibrant culture, and rich history, is an irresistible destination for travellers. When you combine the beauty of this magnificent isle with the freedom of travelling Ireland by campervan, you create an unforgettable experience.

Whether you're exploring the rolling hills of the countryside in the Republic of Ireland or the picturesque coastlines of Northern Ireland, every turn is filled with stunning vistas and captivating stories. In this Explore by Nature road trip guide, you'll discover one of the best 3 week itineraries for travelling Ireland and Northern Ireland by campervan.

The History of Ireland & Northern Ireland

The history of Ireland and Northern Ireland is complex and rich, marked by both cultural prosperity and conflict. The island has been inhabited for over 9,000 years, with the Celts arriving around 500 BC. Recent discoveries, however, have found evidence of human activity dating back 33,000 years ago. The arrival of the English in the 12th century led to centuries of conflict, resulting in a long history of British invasion and colonisation of Ireland. This, in part, led to a Protestant Ascendancy in the north and Catholic majority in the south. 

In 1921, Ireland was partitioned into Northern Ireland and the Irish Free State (later, the Republic of Ireland). The division precipitated decades of political tension, particularly in Northern Ireland, culminating in The Troubles, a period of conflict from the late 1960s to the Good Friday Agreement in 1998. Today, both regions have embraced peace and reconciliation.

Why Travel Ireland & Northern Ireland?

Travelling through Ireland and Northern Ireland by campervan offers a unique blend of natural beauty, historical depth, and the warmth of local culture. From the Cliffs of Moher to the Giant's Causeway, the stunning natural formations and scenic views are picture-perfect at every turn. Both regions are steeped in history, featuring majestic castles, ancient sites, and tales of Celtic heritage. The music, dance, and festivals are a reflection of the lively spirit of the Irish people. 

A campervan allows you to adapt your itinerary on the go should you wish to. Want to linger at a picturesque seaside village or spontaneously explore a hidden gem? With a campervan, you can do just that! Much of Ireland's beauty lies off the beaten path. Travelling Ireland by campervan allows you to reach less-travelled roads and hidden spots that are often missed by conventional travel and tours. Wake up to the sound of crashing waves or the mist rolling in over the hills. You're sure to create stories and memories that will last a lifetime.

How to Organise a Road Trip in a Campervan

Travelling Ireland by campervan is an exciting adventure, but preparation is key to ensuring a smooth and enjoyable journey. Before we get to the full road trip itinerary, here's some tips on how to prepare for your holiday.

Preparing Your Campervan

Before your trip, conduct a thorough check of your campervan. Inspect the brakes, tyres, lights, and fluid levels, or consider having a professional mechanic perform a service or check to ensure everything is in optimal condition. Fill your tank before heading out and ensure your GPS is up to date, or download offline maps in case of poor connection. Having a physical map as a backup is also a smart idea. Check your MOT is not due to expire before you return home and, if it is, book an early MOT before you go.

If you don't own a campervan, consider renting one from a reputable company, either before you head to Ireland or once you get there. Look for options that offer various amenities suited to your travel needs, whether you're seeking luxury or budget-friendly choices. Popular rental companies include Bunk Campers and Quirky Campers. 

Essentials to Bring With You

Whether you're taking your own campervan or renting, there's some essentials you'll want to make sure you've packed before heading off to travel Ireland by campervan.

• Kitchen Gear - check you've got all the pots, pans, utensils, and washing-up liquid you need for your trip. Don't forget the basics, like a stove, kettle, and cooler/fridge for food storage.
• Bedding & Linens - comfortable bedding, pillows, and towels, with spare duvet cover to prolong how long you can travel without needing a washing machine.
• Clothing - pack clothing suitable for various weather conditions. Layers are essential, as Irish weather can be unpredictable.
• Food & Supplies - stock up on any non-perishables you'll want for the trip. Consider packing snacks and drinks for the road.
• Outdoor Gear - if you plan on hiking or exploring, pack appropriate gear such as sturdy hiking boots, rain jackets, walking poles, and a backpack.
• Camera Equipment - Northern Ireland & Ireland's landscapes are stunning, so don't forget your camera or phone for capturing memories.

Travelling to Ireland

Always get comprehensive travel insurance for yourself that will cover any potential medical emergencies and personal belongings. Additionally, ensure your campervan insurance covers European travel for the length of your journey. You may need to purchase an add-on if it doesn't. It's important to notify your insurance of the length and dates of your holiday prior to travelling. If you're renting a campervan, confirm it comes with adequate insurance coverage, including liability.

The most common route for UK travellers to Ireland is by ferry. Key routes include Holyhead to Dublin (Stena Line & Irish Ferries), Fishguard to Rosslare (Stena Line), or the much longer ferry ride from Liverpool to Belfast (Stena Line). Book your ferry in advance and ensure you have all the necessary documentation for travel, including passports, vehicle registration, and proof of insurance & MOT. It's likely none of this will be checked at customs, but it's better safe than sorry.

Ireland by Campervan: 3 Week Road Trip Itinerary

Whether you're an adventure seeker, a history buff, or a culture enthusiast, exploring Ireland and Northern Ireland by campervan offers journeys that will touch your heart and enliven your spirit. In this Explore by Nature guide, I'll introduce you to an unmissable 3 week coastal road trip itinerary that will show you some of the best Ireland and Northern Ireland has to offer.

This road trip itinerary is based on arriving by ferry from Holyhead, Wales, to Dublin, Ireland. If you're already based in Ireland or Northern Ireland, you can pick any day and start from there. This route is circular, starting and ending in the Dublin area so it can be easily adapted. If you instead choose the ferry from Liverpool to Belfast, you can begin and end the trip in Belfast either by visiting Howth on one of your last days or by completing the circular route in reverse.

Day 1: Howth

Howth is a picturesque fishing village located on the northeastern coast of Dublin Bay and has a rich history that dates back over a thousand years. The name "Howth" is derived from an Old Norse word meaning "head" or "height", reflecting its prominent geography. If, like me, you've heard endless compliments of Howth from Vogue Williams on her podcasts, I can officially tell you it lives up to the hype. 

Howth's culture is deeply intertwined with its maritime heritage and the vibrant community of locals who call it home. Fishermen's traditions still thrive here, and the village celebrates seafood with its restaurants and markets. Additionally, Howth is known for its artistic community, with various galleries and artists inspired by the stunning coastal landscapes. One of the highlights of visiting Howth is the beautiful cliff walk. This scenic loop takes you along the rugged cliffs of Howth Head, offering breathtaking views of Dublin Bay, the Irish Sea, and the surrounding countryside. The walk typically takes around 2-3 hours to complete the full loop.

Step back in time at Howth Castle, where you can explore the historic grounds and the lovely surrounding gardens. Explore the vibrant Howth Market, situated near the harbour. Here, you'll find a selection of artisanal food stalls, local crafts, and unique souvenirs. The atmosphere is lively, making it a perfect place to savour local delicacies, enjoy fresh food, and sip coffee. During certain seasons, Howth is an excellent spot for whale watching. Several boat trips from the harbour allow visitors to catch a glimpse of dolphins, seals, porpoises, and whales. Howth is the perfect place to begin your journey of travelling Ireland by campervan.

Where to Eat in Howth?

• Off Grid Coffee - highly rated, dog-friendly café with a cool and modern atmosphere.
• The Pier House - modern seafood restaurant with seasonal menus, with limited vegetarian and gluten-free options.
• PÓG Café - charming café serving breakfast, brunch & lunch, with gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options.

Where to Stay in Howth?

Overnight Parking:

• Pier Parking - busy during the day, but overnight parking is available beside public toilets and close to the bay.
• Bailey Green Road - tarmac parking lot, can be quite busy until the evening. Height bar at 2.1m.
• Thormanby Road - decent-sized parking area with sea views, but height bar at 2.1m.

Campsites:

• Deer Park - campervan spaces (€10) and tent pitches (€5) available. Located an 8-minute drive or 45-minute walk from the centre of Howth. Contact email office@hyc.ie to ensure booking is still available.

Accommodation:

• Marine Hotel - gateway to Howth, relatively budget-friendly for the location. Located 10-minute drive, 15-minute bus ride, or 1 hour walk from the centre of Howth.
• Gleann Na Smol B&B - nestled in the heart of Howth, this is a relatively budget-friendly bed & breakfast.
• King Sitric Guesthouse - located above the seafood bar, this dog-friendly accommodation offers sea views and the perfect location for exploring Howth.

Day 2: Belfast

Travel time: 2 hours (Howth to Belfast)

Belfast, the capital city of Northern Ireland, is a vibrant hub of history, culture, and innovation. Known for its rich industrial heritage and exceptional arts scene, Belfast offers visitors an intriguing blend of the past and present, making it a must-visit destination when travelling Ireland by campervan. During the 19th century, the city became a major centre for linen production and shipbuilding, and is well-known as the birthplace of the RMS Titanic. The troubles of the late 20th century cast a long shadow over the city, but Belfast has emerged as a place of healing and transformation, with a thriving tourist industry and a renewed sense of community.

One of the most distinctive features of Belfast is its murals. The murals tell the story of the city's past as well as showcasing contemporary issues, making the public art a powerful form of expression. The revitalised Titanic Quarter is dedicated to Belfast's maritime heritage. Visitors can explore the Titanic Belfast Museum, which offers an immersive experience into the ship's creation and ill-fated journey. The nearby SS Nomadic also welcomes visitors and provides insight into the early 20th century maritime life.

The Botanic Gardens are a serene escape in the heart of the city. Home to beautiful palm houses and stunning floral displays, the park is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. Located within the Botanic Gardens, the Ulster Museum features diverse exhibits ranging from art to history and natural sciences. Ulster Museum is free to enter and provides a thorough overview of Northern Ireland's cultural heritage. The Cathedral Quarter is the city's cultural heartbeat. It's home to several art galleries, boutiques, and eateries, making it an ideal spot for exploring Belfast's creative spirit.

Where to Eat in Belfast?

• Home Restaurant - high quality food with seasonal ingredients, offering delicious vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Jumon - lively Asian-inspired restaurant close to Belfast's Titanic Quarter, with a fantastic range of vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Gnostic Bar & Kitchen - situated on the edge of the River Lagan, this cosy restaurant serves a range of delectable meals, with vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.

Where to Stay in Belfast?

Overnight Parking:

• Laird Park - large car park, quiet on a night, and a 10-minute drive or a little over an hour's walk to get to the Titanic Quarter.
• Montgomery Road - free parking along Montgomery Road near a leisure centre. 16-minute drive, 40-minute bus ride, or little over an hour's walk to the Titanic Quarter.
• Stranmillis Gardens - free parking near the river hiking trail, can be loud with traffic and pedestrians. 20-minute drive or 1-hour walk to Titanic Quarter.

Campsites:

• Dundonald Touring Caravan Park - located a 20-minute drive or 1-hour bus ride from Belfast's Titanic Quarter and full of fantastic facilities, this site is suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.
• Loughshore Caravan Park - on the edge of Belfast Lough, this campsite is perfectly located for exploring Belfast's Titanic Quarter, only a 12-minute drive or 50-minute bus ride.
• Ardnavally Outdoor Activity Centre - nestled in woodland, this tent-only campsite is around a 25-minute drive or 1-hour bus ride to the Titanic Quarter. 

Accommodation:

• Botanical Backpackers Hostel - small and friendly hostel just a 1-minute walk from Beflast's Botanical Gardens, with budget-friendly shared dorm accommodation.
• Benedicts Hotel - boutique-style hotel located on Belfast's vibrant Golden Mile.
• Titanic Hotel Belfast - a luxurious and historic stay in the former headquarters of Harland & Wolff, builders of the Titanic. Located perfectly in the heart of Belfast's Titanic Quarter.

Day 3-5: Ballycastle, Rathlin Island & Giant's Causeway

Travel time: 1 hour 10 minutes (Belfast to Ballycastle)

Ballycastle in Northern Ireland was initially established as a fishing port and quickly evolved into a bustling market town. The town's name derives from the Irish "Baile an Chaisle", meaning "the town of the castle", referring to the ruins of Ballycastle Castle, which once guarded the shoreline. Ballycastle is a must-visit destination when travelling Northern Ireland by campervan and serves as a fantastic base for exploring some of the region's best attractions.

In Ballycastle itself, you can explore the ruins of the medieval castle that gives the town its name. Stroll around the picturesque grounds while enjoying views of the Antrim coastline. Ballycastle's sandy beach is perfect for a day of relaxing, swimming, or building sandcastles. The beach has lovely walks along the coast that provide stunning views. Ballycastle's Marina is the gateway to exploring the nearby Rathlin Island and there's the option of using public transport to visit attractions further afield, such as the Giant's Causeway.

Rathlin Island

Rathlin Island, just a short ferry ride from Ballycastle, is steeped in history that traces back thousands of years. Evidence of ancient settlements, such as Neolithic and Bronze Age sites, can be found on the island. Over the centuries, Rathlin has witnessed significant events, including the Irish Rebellion and tensions during the 17th century. Rathlin Island is home to a small population that fiercely cherishes its heritage and traditions. The island's culture is heavily influenced by the surrounding sea, leading to a lifestyle that revolves around fishing and community gatherings. Using Ballycastle as your base, Rathlin Island is an easy and must-visit spot when travelling Northern Ireland by campervan.

Start your adventure with a scenic ferry ride from Ballycastle. The journey is filled with chances to spot marine wildlife, including seals and seabirds, and is a nice break from life on the road. Once there, take a hike to the towering lighthouse at the northern tip of the island for impressive views and a chance to spot the local seal colonies. One of Rathlin Island's most exceptional features is its diverse wildlife. It is a birdwatcher's paradise, hosting thousands of seabirds, including puffins, guillemots, razorbills, and kittiwakes, particularly during the breeding season from April to July. 

Located in the west of Rathlin Island, the RSPB Seabird Centre is an essential stop for wildlife lovers. Here, visitors can learn about the island's seabirds through informative displays and observation points, providing a close look at these incredible species. Rathlin Island also boasts several scenic walking trails that allow visitors to explore its natural beauty. The cliffs and coastal paths offer breathtaking vistas, with trails like the Church Bay to Rue Point walk.

Giant's Causeway

The Giant's Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is only a 20-minute drive or 1-hour bus journey from Ballycastle, making it a simple destination to reach when travelling Northern Ireland by campervan. Known for its unique hexagonal basalt columns, this geological formation offers a fascinating blend of history, legend, and adventure. Legend has it, the formation was created by the Irish giant, Finn McCool, who built the causeway as a bridge to Scotland to confront a rival giant. According to the myth, Finn's strength and prowess turned him into a legend and the causeway remains a testament to his bravery and ingenuity.

In reality, or so they have you believe, the Giant's Causeway was formed approximately 60 million years ago during a period of intense volcanic activity. As molten lava flowed from the earth's interior and met with the sea, it cooled rapidly, causing it to contract and crack into the distinctive geometric shapes visible today. The result is around 40,000 interlocking basalt columns that vary in height, with some reaching up to 12m tall.

The main attraction of the Giant's Causeway is, of course, the columns themselves. Visitors can stroll along the pathway, explore the uniquely shaped stones, and watch the waves crashing against the shore. The Giant's Causeway Visitor's Centre offers interactive exhibits detailing the geological and mythological history of the site. With engaging displays and a café for refreshments, it's an excellent starting or finishing point for your adventure.

Where to Eat in Ballycastle?

• Thyme & Co Café - lovely, independent café serving vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Our Dolly's Café - warm and friendly café with delicious vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• O'Connor's Bar & Restaurant - traditional Irish bar and restaurant with a modern feel. Limited vegetarian & gluten-free options.

Where to Stay in Ballycastle?

Overnight Parking:

• Ballycastle Car Park - large, flat car park in the heart of Ballycastle. Free parking and no overnight restrictions. 
• Ann Street Car Park - paid car park with no overnight restrictions. Height barrier of 1.95m, but barrier not currently in use.
• Mary Street Roadside Parking - free roadside parking close to the beach and shops.

Campsites:

• Causeway Coast Holiday Park - spacious and relaxing campsite, with a swimming pool, located in Ballycastle. Suitable for motorhomes and caravans.
• Trench Farm - a working farm located a 5-minute drive or 45-minute walk from Ballycastle. Suitable for tent pitches only.
• Glenmore Caravan and Camping Park - serene park and campsite situated just outside of Ballycastle, a 5-minute drive or 1-hour walk away. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.

Accommodation:

• Castle Hostel - budget-friendly hostel situated in Ballycastle, only a 5-minute walk from the beach.
• Carnately Lodge - charming and comfortable lodge, located a 4-minute drive or 40-minute walk from the centre of Ballycastle.
• The Salthouse Hotel - luxurious, eco-conscious hotel located in the heart of Ballycastle.

Day 6: Malin Head

Travel time: 2 hours (Ballycastle to Malin Head, with or without a ferry)

Optional Stop: Gortmore Viewpoint

If you'd like to enjoy a scenic stop on your journey to Malin Head from Ballycastle, Gortmore Viewpoint is an ideal spot. Perched on the hills of County Londonderry, Gortmore VIewpoint offers expansive panoramic vistas of lush countryside, the majestic Sperrin Mountains, and the waters of Lough Foyle. The convenience of access and the breathtaking scenery make Gortmore Viewpoint a captivating stop as you travel Ireland & Northern Ireland by campervan.

Malin Head

Malin Head is a stunningly beautiful and historically rich destination located on the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal. Known for its rugged cliffs, dramatic landscapes, and untouched natural beauty, Malin Head offers a unique glimpse of Ireland's wild Atlantic coast. Malin Head's location has made it a pivotal point for navigation and shipping for centuries. During World War II, the area was used as a lookout point for American and British troops. The iconic Malin Head Signal Station, established in the 19th century, played a crucial role in maritime communication, aiding vessels navigating the often-treacherous waters off the coast.

As the northernmost point of Ireland, Malin Head boasts breathtaking views over the Atlantic Ocean and coastline, making it a must-visit destination when travelling Ireland by campervan. There are several hiking trails in and around Malin Head that cater to all levels of fitness. Take a leisurely walk along the coastal paths that wind around the headland and pop down to Kitters Beach for a little relaxation. The cliffs provide stunning vantage points to observe the Atlantic waves crashing against the rocks. Explore the historic signal station, which offers panoramic views of the coast and is a great spot for taking photos. The informative displays tell the story of the station's maritime history. At night, there's a chance you'll see the Northern Lights, so check the forecast and keep an eye out for one of the world's most magical sights.

Where to Eat in Malin Head?

• Seaview Tavern - fantastic restaurant with stunning ocean views, specialising in fresh seafood dishes. Delicious vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Farren's Bar - Ireland's most northerly pub, serving a range of classic dishes. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Caffee Banba Coffee Van - perched at the very top of Malin Head, with views all around, Ireland's oldest mobile coffee shop serving coffee, hot and cold food, and homemade baked goods. Only open from Easter to September.

Where to Stay in Malin Head?

Overnight Parking:

• Viewpoint Car Park - one of my favourite parking spots in Ireland. A quiet and flat parking area in the middle of nowhere, with 360 degree views all around.
• Malin Head Car Park - free parking right next to Lloyds Signal Tower in Malin Head, perfectly located for visiting Malin Head. Public toilets open during the day.
• Malin Head Harbour - limited parking available along the harbour, with water taps on the pier.

Campsites:

• Seaview Tavern - free motorhome parking available in the field next to Seaview Tavern, with fresh water available free of charge. Dining at the tavern and/or use of the supermarket and petrol station is appreciated.
• Binion Bay Caravan & Camping Park - nestled in the hills of Donegal and located 35 minutes away from Malin Head. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.

Accommodation:

• Sandrock Hostel - budget-friendly option a 10-minute drive or a little over an hour's walk to Malin Head.
• Seaview Tavern - in a good location for exploring all Malin Head has to offer, with close proximity to the ocean.
• Malin Head SolasTobann ArtHouse - beautiful beachfront bed and breakfast, only a 5-minute walk from Malin Head.

Day 7: Glenveagh National Park

Travel time: 1 hour 40 minutes (Malin Head to Glenveagh National Park)

Nestled in the heart of County Donegal, Glenveagh National Park showcases the stunning natural beauty of Ireland. It's the second-largest national park in Ireland and offers visitors a perfect blend of rugged landscapes, tranquil lakes, and rich history. The area was originally inhabited by early Celtic settlers. In the 19th century, the landscape was transformed when John George Adair established a grand estate and built Glenveagh Castle, which served as a luxurious residence. After Adair's death, the estate changed hands several times. In 1975, it was acquired by the Irish government and officially designated a national park in 1981.

The park features dramatic mountain ranges, expansive woodlands, and stunning lakes. It is especially known for its pristine environment and as a haven for various wildlife, including red deer and golden eagles. Glenveagh Castle and its gardens are significant attractions. The castle, with its striking stone façade provides a glimpse into the area's aristocratic heritage. Don't miss the walled garden, which features exotic plants and flowers, or the café for lunch and a coffee. With a large parking area at Glenveagh Visitor Centre, numerous walking trails, and a bus to the castle, this is the perfect place to visit when exploring Ireland by campervan.

Glenveagh National Park offers numerous hiking trails suitable for all levels. Popular routes include the "Lakeside Walk", which provides stunning views of Lough Veagh and takes you to Astelleen Burn Waterfall, and the more challenging "Rawdons Walk", which leads you into the rugged terrain of the Derryveagh Mountains. Alternatively, consider joining a guided walking tour to learn more about the park's ecology, flora, and fauna.

Where to Eat in Glenveagh National Park?

• Synge & Byrne Tea Rooms - situated within the grounds of Glenveagh Castle, these tea rooms are the perfect place to grab a coffee and a bite to eat while you explore. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• The Lagoon Restaurant and Guesthouse - a 10-minute drive from Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre, with a range of meat dishes. Unclear if there are vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Huckleberry Coffee Shop - located a 15-minute drive from Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre, this charming café serves a delicious breakfast and lunch menu. Vegetarian and gluten-free options available, unclear if there are vegan options.

Where to Stay in Glenveagh National Park?

Overnight Parking:

• St. Colmcille's Church Car Park - only a 15-minute drive from Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre, this large parking area is perfect after a day of exploration.
• Lough Salt Parking Area - a quiet parking spot with spectacular views of Lough Salt, only a 15-minute drive from Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre.
• Wilkin's Bar & Lounge - parking beside Wilkin's Bar & Lounge, with 3 electrical hookup points, at a cost of €8. Only a 15-minute drive to Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre.

Campsites:

• Wild Atlantic Camp - set in the beauty of Glenveagh and only a 15-minute drive to Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre. Suitable for motorhomes and caravans only.
• Sleepy Hollows - located a 30-minute drive from Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre, this campsite is set in beautiful surroundings for a relaxing stay.

Accommodation:

• Errigal Hostel - only a short 15-minute drive from Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre, this hostel is perfect for a budget-friendly stay in Glenveagh.
• Gormley Residence - an adults-only homestay with breakfast included, only a 20-minute drive to Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre.
• Ivy Lodge - a one-bedroom apartment with stunning surroundings, located a 15-minute drive to Glenveagh National Park Visitor Centre.

Day 8: Bunbeg & Sliabh Liag

Travel time: 25 minutes (Glenveagh National Park to Bunbeg)

Bunbeg

Along the coastline of County Donegal, Bunbeg beach is a picturesque stretch of sand offering breathtaking scenery. Its serene environment makes it an ideal spot for relaxation, exploration, and adventure. Bunbeg ("Bun Beag" in Irish) translates to "small mouth", referring to the small river that flows into the Atlantic Ocean at this location. The beach itself has served as a vital point for local fishermen and traders for generations. Bunbeg beach is framed by the backdrop of the Derryveagh Mountains, creating a dramatic contrast against the shimmering waters of the Atlantic. This tranquil spot is a beautiful place to visit or wake up to as you travel Ireland by campervan.

At Bunbeg beach, you'll find Bád Eddie, an iconic landmark in County Donegal. Standing for nearly 50 years, Bád Eddie is a beloved landmark. Contrary to popular belief, Bád Eddie is not a shipwreck, but a boat that was towed ashore for repairs in 1977. Sadly, those repairs never took place. For reasons unknown, Bád Eddie was abandoned on the shores of Bunbeg, a place it would call home for the following years. Over time, Bád Eddie has deteriorated from the exposure and locals hope they can salvage the boat for future generations. By encasing the wreck in stainless steel, the framework can act as both protection and artwork in its own right.

Sliabh Liag

Located a little over an hour away from Bunbeg is the magnificent Sliabh Liag, some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Soaring to heights of over 600m, this natural landmark offers visitors awe-inspiring views, rich history, and diverse walking trails. The cliffs have served as a site of significance for ancient Celtic tribes, and some historians believe they may have been a sacred site for early Christians. In addition to its natural beauty, Sliabh Liag is steeped in mythology and folklore. Legend has it, the cliffs were formed from the leftover stones of a giant's house, adding to their mystical allure.

Sliabh Liag offers a variety of walking trails that cater to different levels of experience and adventurous spirit. "One Man's Pass" is a great trail that provides an exhilarating experience for adventurous hikers. The narrow path winds along the edge of the cliffs and offers breathtaking views. Without proper precautions, the path can be dicey, so it's essential to wear sturdy footwear and exercise caution. The "Sliabh Liag Walk" showcases the region's natural beauty. This 3-4 hour round-trip takes visitors on a journey through beautiful landscapes with sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean rugged mountains, and picturesque valleys. For a more leisurely stroll, follow the well-marked trail from the car park to the Sliabh Liag viewing platforms where you can experience fantastic views of the cliffs and enjoy a coffee at the refreshments van. Hopefully, you'll have more luck with the weather and visibility than I did.

Where to Eat Near Sliabh Liag?

• Bunglás Ice Cream and Coffee - located at the Bunglás viewing area on Sliabh Liag, this is the perfect place to take a break and enjoy a coffee and a baked treat.
• Tí Linn Café - based near the beautiful Sliabh Liag cliffs, this café blends traditional Irish food with a modern twist. Vegetarian & gluten-free options available.
• The Rusty Mackerel - sitting at the base of the Sliabh Liag walk, this traditional bar and restaurant serves a range of delectable dishes. Limited vegetarian & gluten-free options available.

Where to Stay Near Sliabh Liag?

Overnight Parking:

• Sliabh Liag Port - a small port that allows overnight parking, but vehicles must depart during the day.
• Fintra Bay Parking - quiet parking by the beach and only a 20-minute drive from Sliabh Liag cliffs.
• Silver Strand Car Park - a 25-minute drive from Sliabh Liag cliffs, this parking area is located in close proximity to the beach. 

Campsites:

• Sliabh Liag Camping - located right at the foot of the Sliabh Liag cliff walk, this campsite is the perfect place to stay during your visit. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.
• Killybegs Holiday Park - a 25-minute drive from Sliabh Liag cliffs and within a 5-minute drive of Fintra Bay, this campsite allows motorhomes, caravans, and tents.

Accommodation:

• Derrylahan Hostel - a quiet spot close to the beach with dormitory style and family rooms available. Only a 10-minute drive from Sliabh Liag cliffs.
• Slieve League Lodge - ideally located in Carrick and only a 5-minute drive from Sliabh Liag, this lodge features double/twin, triple and quad rooms.
• The Rusty Mackerel - close to Sliabh Liag and perfectly located for a good's night rest after a day of exploring.

Day 9: Sligo

Travel time: 1 hour 40 minutes

Sligo, a lovely town on Ireland's west coast, is a treasure trove of history and outdoor activities. It's a fantastic area to visit when exploring Ireland by campervan. The area is dotted with ancient monuments, including the famous Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery, which is one of the largest and oldest collections of prehistoric tombs in Ireland. During the medieval period, Sligo became an important centre for trade and administration under the rule of the O'Conor kings. The 18th and 19th centuries saw Sligo grow further, as it became a vital port for exports, particularly fish and agricultural goods. Despite facing challenges such as the Great Famine and economic decline in the 20th century, Sligo has emerged as a lively cultural and artistic centre, celebrating its rich legacy.

Glencar Waterfall & Devil's Chimney

Glencar Waterfall, located just a short drive from Sligo town, is one of the country's most picturesque waterfalls. This enchanting natural wonder cascades down a rocky ledge into a serene lake, framed by lush greenery and dramatic cliffs. It is particularly stunning after rainfall and is a popular spot for photographers and nature lovers alike. Accessible via a well-maintained walking path, Glencar Waterfall is perfect for those exploring Ireland by campervan. The path leading to the waterfall is short, making it an easy and rewarding walk for families and individuals of all fitness levels. Right by the waterfall, you'll find the Glencar teaSHED, a wonderful café and shop.

Within walking distance of Glencar Waterfall is the Devil's Chimney. Renowned for being one of the highest waterfalls in Ireland, its waters fall from a height of approximately 150m. The hike to the Devil's Chimney is a little more demanding than the Glencar Waterfall, but well worth the effort. Winding through enchanting woodland, the trail varies from forest paths to rocky slopes, offering sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. As you ascend, the chorus of birds and rustling leaves creates a tranquil atmosphere. Depending on the time of year, the Devil's Chimney can flow dramatically, especially after rain. Unless you're as unlucky as me, in which case there'll be no water to see fall. It is, however, still a scenic walk. Glencar Lough Car Park offers ample free parking for visiting both of these waterfalls, with public toilets, making it an easy destination when travelling Ireland by campervan.

Benbulbin Mountain

Benbulbin/Benbulben, often referred to as the "table mountain" of Sligo, is a striking limestone formation that rises dramatically from the land. At over 500m tall, it has a distinct flat-topped appearance, making it one of Ireland's most recognisable geological features. Steeped in myth and folklore, it also holds importance in Irish literature and culture. 

Several trails and paths wind their way around Benbulbin, catering to various fitness levels. Adventurous hikers can conquer the summit for breathtaking views over Sligo and beyond. Alternatively, gentler walks around the base allow for a more leisurely exploration of the mountain's beauty. Visit the nearby ruins of the medieval Kilnagross Church or the Yeats' family plot at the graveyard near the mountain. These historical sites connect you to the cultural heritage of the area. For geology enthusiasts, Benbulbin is a fascinating study in limestone formation and erosion. Interpretive signs along the trails provide insights into the natural history of the mountain and its significance in shaping Sligo's landscape.

Where to Eat in Sligo?

• Vintage Lane Café - situated between Benbulbin and Sligo, this quirky and dog-friendly café is a great place to stop on your journey. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Eala Bhán - located in the heart of Sligo, this restaurant serves fresh and regionally inspired dishes, with delicious vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Riverside Hotel Restaurant - with river views and Irish charm, this restaurant serves a range of bar and traditional pub meals. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.

Where to Stay in Sligo?

Overnight Parking:

• Riverside Car Park - large public car park in Sligo, with free parking between 18:00 and 08:30. Wide verges for larger vehicles. Payment during the day is cash only.
• Lower Quay Street - car park near the river in Sligo, close to the centre and quiet. Overnight parking is free after 18:30. Payment required for daytime parking.
• Doorly Park Road - free parking in a retail park a little further from Sligo centre, around a 20-minute walk from the centre of Sligo. Swimming and showers available nearby.

Campsites:

• Rosses Point Caravan & Camping - with access to two sandy beaches, this campsite is located a 15-minute drive from both Benbulbin and Sligo. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.
• Strandhill Caravan & Camping - located on the famous Strandhill beach and only a 15-minute drive from Sligo, this campsite is suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.
• Lough Arrow Touring Park - on the shores of Lough Arrow and a 30-minute drive from Sligo, this campsite features stunning views and a rural setting. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans, and tents.

Accommodation:

• The Railway Hostel - family-managed hostel offering a warm and budget-friendly stay in Sligo. Mixed forms and private rooms available.
• Riverside Hotel - spacious and modern hotel along the river in the heart of Sligo.
• The Glasshouse - stylish and vibrant hotel with stunning views over the river, located in the centre of Sligo.

Day 10: Achill Island

Travel time: 2 hours 10 minutes (Sligo to Achill Island)

Achill Island, the largest island off the coast of Ireland, is a haven that promises stunning landscapes, rich history, and a plethora of activities. Known for its dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and welcoming locals, this island captures the essence of Irish charm and natural beauty.

Achill Island has a fascinating history that dates back thousands of years. Evidence of early settlements can be traced to the Neolithic era. In the 19th century, the island became the focus of various émigrés seeking a better life. The Great Famine of the 1840s had a profound impact, leading to population declines and emigration waves. Over the years, Achill's communities have worked hard to preserve their cultural heritage.

Located at the foot of Slievemore Mountain, Slievemore Deserted Village is a haunting site consisting of stone cottages abandoned during the famine. Almost 100 dwellings can be found here, stretching for a mile along the southern slopes of Slievemore Mountain. You can follow this road, passing by the stone cottages, as part of a longer walk around the island. The Deserted Village is a place for reflection and remembrance of the hardships faced in Ireland.

Achill boasts some of Ireland's finest beaches, including Keem Bay, celebrated for its crystal-clear waters and soft sands. Spend a day at one of Achill's stunning beaches for a swim or to relax in the sun. With its ideal coastal conditions, Achill also offers opportunities for surfing, kayaking, and windsurfing, particularly at Keel Beach. For a peaceful experience, wander the coastal paths and admire the island's tranquility. 

Where to Eat in Achill Island?

• Beehive Craft Coffee Shop - wholesome café and crafts shop in Keel, serving locally sourced food. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Amethyst Bar - located in Keel, serving hearty meals in a homely restaurant. Delicious vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Gielty's Bar & Restaurant - cosy and modern bar situated in Dooagh, serving vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.

Where to Stay in Achill Island?

Overnight Parking:

• Keel Sandybanks - parking on pebble beach with views over Keel Strand. Toilets within walking distance. Take care when driving over pebbles.
• Keel Beach - large parking area behind sand dunes with easy access to the beach. Toilets within walking distance.
• Keem Upper Car Park - the upper car park overlooking Keem Beach allows free overnight parking.

Campsites:

• Keel Camping - spacious campsite along the shores of Keel Strand, within easy walking distance to the beach. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• Achill Seal Caves Caravan & Camping Park - located between Dugort hill and Slievemore mountain, this campsite sits on the north side of Achill Island. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.

Accommodation:

• The Valley House Hostel and Bar - located on the north side of Achill Island, this budget-friendly accommodation has private and shared rooms.
• Creevagh - private rooms in a homestay located in Keel on Achill Island.
• Achill Cliff House Hotel - family-run hotel in the heart of Keel, within walking distance of the beach.

Day 11: Galway

Travel time: 2 hours (Achill Island to Galway)

Galway, a vibrant city on Ireland's west coast, is often regarded as the cultural capital of the country. Renowned for its rich history, artistic community, and lively atmosphere, Galway offers visitors a unique insight into Irish culture. Galway's history dates back to the 12th century, when it was established as a fishing village. The city flourished under the rule of the Anglo-Normans and became known for its merchant class, particularly the famous Tribes of Galway who controlled trade and politics from the 13th to the 19th century. Despite challenges such as the Great Famine, the city survived and thrived, becoming an important hub for trade and culture in Ireland.

The Latin Quarter is the heart of Galway's bustling social life. With its colourful streets, shops, and restaurants, visitors can immerse themselves in the lively atmosphere. Visit the Galway Cathedral and admire its stunning architecture. Completed in 1965, the impressive structure is noted for its beautiful stained glass windows. The Spanish Arch, located on the banks of the River Corrib, is a historical landmark that dates back to the 16th century.

For a leisurely stroll along the coastline, check out the walk along the Salthill Promenade. This promenade takes you all the way from the Claddagh Quay to the famous Blackrock diving tower. Consider booking a walking tour to explore Galway's lively streets and fascinating history. I found this to be the perfect way to learn all about Galway and meet new people. The tour I booked was with Tribes Tours. It's a free walking tour that takes you to all of Galway's historical sites and you can tip at the end based on your satisfaction.

Where to Eat in Galway?

• WYLDE - wholesome coffee shop and deli in the heart of Galway, serving a range of delicious dishes, including vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Rúibín Restaurant - contemporary Irish menu with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Dela - delectable brunch and evening menu, using locally sourced food, with vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.

Where to Stay in Galway?

Overnight Parking:

• Oranmore Train Station - a large train station car park with free daytime and overnight parking. I'd recommend staying here and getting the 10-minute train into Galway as it's much easier for parking larger vehicles.
• Tuam Road - free parking lot for nearby businesses. No signs to indicate overnight parking prohibited.
• Gaillimh Car Park - paid parking with only 5 spaces, overnight parking allowed. The only parking in the area without a height barrier.

Campsites:

• Salthill Caravan & Camping Park - right by the water in Salthill and only a 15-minute drive or 20-minute bus journey into Galway. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• O'Hallorans Caravan Park - located a 15-minute drive or 20-minute bus journey, this campsite is perfectly located for exploring Galway. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• Spiddal Caravan & Camping Park - located a 30-minute drive from the heart of Galway, this quiet family park is suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.

Accommodation:

• Galway City Hostel - located by Eyre Square, this budget-friendly hostel is an ideal base for exploring Galway and offers affordable tours to The Cliffs of Moher, Connemara & The Aran Islands.
• The House Hotel - a boutique hotel in the city centre of Galway, perfect for exploring the Latin Quarter or walking along the Salthill Promenade.
• Galway Bay Hotel - luxurious hotel with beautiful sea views, featuring a modern leisure centre and heated swimming pool.

Day 12: Cliffs of Moher

Travel time: 1 hour 20 minutes (Galway to Cliffs of Moher)

The Cliffs of Moher, located on the western coast of Ireland in County Clare, are one of the country's most iconic natural landmarks. Rising dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean, these towering cliffs extend for almost 9 miles and reach heights of up to 214m. The sheer beauty and breathtaking vistas have made the Cliffs of Moher a must-visit destination for tourists and locals alike.

In the 19th century, the cliffs became a popular spot for travellers and were featured in several literary works. Most notably, they were in J.M. Synge's play, "The Aran Islands". In 1950, O'Brien's Tower was constructed at the top of the cliffs to serve as an observation point for visitors. The area is rich in biodiversity. It is home to numerous seabirds, including razorbills and guillemots, and is also home to the largest mainland colony of puffins in Ireland. Visitors can witness breathtaking sunsets and sunrises that paint the sky in shades of orange, pink, and purple, leaving a lasting impression of nature's beauty.

One of the best ways to experience the cliffs is by walking along the designated paths. The "Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk" allows you to appreciate the stunning views and rugged terrain at your own pace. Spanning over 12.4 miles, the full trail links the cliffs to the charming village of Doolin. The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre offers a range of interactive exhibitions and displays that provide insights into the geology, wildlife, and history of the cliffs, as well as spectacular views from its glass-walled viewing area. 

Where to Eat Near Cliffs of Moher?

• Puffin Nest Café & Cliffs View Café - located within the Visitor Centre at the Cliffs of Moher Experience, Puffin Nest Café can be found on the ground floor and Cliffs View Café on the first floor. Both offer vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• The Hungry Veggie - only a 5-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher, this vegetarian food trailer serves a range of delicious burgers, fries & salad. 
• Gus O'Connor's Pub - serving a range of Ireland's favourite dishes, this traditional pub offers a wide selection of meals to cater for everyone. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.

Where to Stay Near Cliffs of Moher?

Overnight Parking:

• Cliffs of Moher Car Park - large car park opposite the Cliffs of Moher, paid parking during the day, often free overnight but depends on time of arrival. 
• Doolin Roadside Parking - only a 10-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher, this roadside parking near pubs and shops is a handy place to park but can be busy. Further up the road, there is more parking by the pier.
• Coastal Road Car Park - parking by the Hags Head, only a 10-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher. The walking trail to the Cliffs of Moher is unfortunately closed due to safety issues.

Campsites:

• Nagles Camping & Caravan Park - situated right on the coast and only a 15-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher, this campsite is the perfect place to stay. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents. 
• Riverside Camping - located in the village of Doolin overlooking the Aille River, this family-run campsite is suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• Aille River Tourist Hostel & Camping - available for tents only and located around a 10-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher, this is a budget-friendly campsite in Doolin.

Accommodation:

• Aille River Tourist Hostel & Camping - located a 10-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher and based in the heart of Doolin, this is the perfect spot for a stay in the area.
• Cliffs of Moher Hotel - a boutique hotel located in the fishing village Liscannor, just under a 10-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher.
• Blue Ocean Guest Suites - only a 5-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher, with sea views, outdoor seating, and continental breakfast available.

Day 13-16: Ring of Kerry, Killarney & Carrauntoohil

Travel time: 2 hours 30 minutes (Cliffs of Moher to Killarney)

Killarney, located in County Kerry, is a charming town surrounded by some of the most stunning natural scenery in Ireland. Nestled beside the enchanting Killarney National Park, this vibrant destination offers a rich tapestry of history, remarkable landscapes, and vibrant culture. Anyone travelling Ireland by campervan must visit this spectacular location.

Killarney is known for its majestic landscapes, home to rugged mountains, glistening lakes, and rich biodiversity. The national park is famous for its numerous outdoor activities and scenic beauty, attracting nature enthusiasts year-round. The town is also known for its historical landmarks, including the iconic Muckross House and Gardens, and Ross Castle, each revealing a glimpse into the region's rich past. Killarney also serves as a gateway to the scenic Ring of Kerry, providing easy access to one of Ireland's most famous driving routes.

Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is a mesmerising drive that takes you through some of Ireland's most stunning landscapes, charming towns, and rich history. Stretching approximately 111 miles in County Kerry, this scenic loop offers a unique blend of coastal views, rugged mountains, and vibrant local culture. As you traverse the ring, you'll discover remnants of medieval castles and ancient ruins that tell the story of Ireland's tumultuous past. The region flourished during the 18th and 19th centuries, becoming a significant point for trade and travel amid the Cultural Revolution in Ireland.

Whether you choose to complete this loop in a day, as I did, or take 2-3 days to take in all the sights, the Ring of Kerry is a drive you cannot miss out on. In this Explore by Nature Ireland by campervan guide, you'll discover my recommended spots for a 1-day Ring of Kerry drive.

Ring of Kerry Stop 1: Torc Waterfall

Begin the journey at Torc Waterfall, a must-visit spot located near Killarney National Park. The waterfall, cascading down a height of over 20m, is surrounded by vibrant greenery and offers a serene atmosphere. There's a car park just a short walk from the waterfall, making it accessible for all ages.

Ring of Kerry Stop 2: Ladies' View

One of my favourite stops, Ladies' View offers one of the most breathtaking viewpoints in County Kerry. Named after Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting, who were captivated by the stunning views, it overlooks the valleys and lakes of Killarney.

The lookout point provides sweeping views of the surrounding landscape and is perfect for capturing panoramic photos. Relax at the café for a morning coffee and browse the gift shop for local crafts and souvenirs. Ladies' View is an easily accessible point on the Ring of Kerry with plenty of parking, making it a perfect pit stop.

Ring of Kerry Stop 3: Sneem

With colourful houses, friendly locals, and spectacular countryside views, Sneem is another favourite of mine. Explore the village's shops, art galleries, and local markets, take a leisurely stroll along the riverbank, and enjoy brunch at one of the local pubs or cafés.

The Bridge Café & Bistro is a relaxing place to eat and have a rest, with delicious food and vegetarian/vegan options. A serene walk along the river bank will bring you to The Garden of the Senses, a beautiful garden awash with colours and fragrances.

Ring of Kerry Stop 4: Kerry Cliffs

On par with the Cliffs of Moher are the stunning Kerry Cliffs that rise dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean. Stand in awe of the soaring cliffs, some reaching heights of up to 230m, and enjoy incredible views of the Skellig Islands.

The area features well-maintained walking paths along the cliffs, where you can spot seabirds and marine wildlife as you take in the coastal charm.

Ring of Kerry Stop 5: Valentia Island

Connected to the mainland by a bridge, Valentia Island is a tranquil getaway that offers unique attractions, such as the famous Skellig Michael. The island is known for its scenic coastal walks and panoramic views.

Consider hiking up Geokaun Mountain, the highest point of Valentia Island, where you can experience 360° views. On a clear day, you can spot The Skelligs, The Blakset Islands, Dingle & Portmagee. It's a truly spectacular spot. With a car park at the base of the hike, and two further up, the walk is suitable for all abilities.

Ring of Kerry Stop 6: Kells Bay

When I planned my Ring of Kerry route, my final stop had intended to be Rossbeigh Strand. Unforuntely, what I was met with, was a huge car park, half empty, with a height barrier preventing campervans from visiting this beautiful beach. As there were no alternative parking spots, I moved on. In lieu of Rossbeigh Strand, Kells Bay is a fantastic alternative for your final stop on the Ring of Kerry. Known for striking coastal views and lush gardens, Kells Bay is the perfect stop for nature lovers and those wishing to unwind after a full day of driving. Visit the beautifully landscaped gardens of Kells Bay House and Gardens, featuring tropical plants, waterfall features, and walking trails. Relax on the sandy beach of Kells Bay or take an evening dip in the invigorating Atlantic waters. 

Ross Castle & Muckross Abbey

Ross Castle, a striking 15th-century tower house, stands majestically on the edge of Lough Leane. Built by the O-Donoghue clan, it is a symbol of Ireland's feudal past and a key attraction in Killarney. The castle exhibits traditional medieval architecture, featuring a tall tower, fortified walls, and a stunning setting against the backdrop of Lough Leane and mountains. Visitors can explore the castle through guided tours. These provide insights into the history of Ross Castle, its architecture, and the legends surrounding it, including the tale of the O'Donoghue ghost. 

If, like me, you choose to walk to Ross Castle from Killarney, be sure to pass through Killarney House & Gardens, a popular spot for finding Ireland's last surviving indigenous herd of red deer. I hadn't expected this on my walk and was delighted to see these beauties up close.

Located near the famous Muckross House, Muckross Abbey is an impressive 15th-century Franciscan monastery. Founded around 1445 by the Gaelic lord Donal McCarthy Mór, the abbey offers visitors a unique insight into Ireland's history. Muckross Abbey features beautiful Gothic architecture, with a large church, intricately carved stonework, and a peaceful courtyard with an ancient yew planted in the middle thought to be as old as the abbey itself.

The abbey served as a place of worship and refuge, and it housed a school for the local community for many years. Its walls tell the tales of the past and provide a glimpse into monastic life. The tranquil grounds and the enchanting ruins make this an ideal place to visit and explore, weaving your way around the corridors and secret rooms of the abbey.

Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe is a picturesque mountain pass nestled in County Kerry, near the town of Killarney. This natural gem was formed approximately two million years ago during the last ice age. As the ice sheets melted, they carved out the valley, leaving behind the striking landscape we see today. The area surrounding the Gap of Dunloe has been inhabited for thousands of years, with remnants of ancient settlements and structures dotting the landscape.

The Gap is renowned for its scenic hiking trails. A roughly 10-12km hike from Kate Kearney's Cottage (a popular starting point with a large & free car park) to the Head of the Gap offers breathtaking views of rugged mountains, serene lakes, and abundant wildlife. It's a moderately challenging trail, suitable for those with a reasonable level of fitness. As this is an out-and-back hike, you can stop at any point and turn around based on your fitness levels and allocated time. The Gap's dramatic landscapes offer some of Ireland's most impressive vistas. Each twist and turn reveals a new spectacular view. At the end, visit Kate Kearney's Cottage or the neighbouring Coffee Pot Café to relax and get a bite to eat after a fantastic hike.

Climbing Carrauntoohil

Since you're in Killarney, it would be rude not to attempt Ireland's highest mountain. Standing at 1,038m (3,406 feet), Carrauntoohil is one of Ireland's most iconic peaks and offers breathtaking views and exhilarating hiking experiences. Carrauntoohil is a prominent feature in Irish folklore, with legends interwoven in its history. One such legend refers to the mountain as the throne of Crom Dubh, an ancient folklore figure of Ireland.

Standing atop Carrauntoohil provides a profound sense of accomplishment. Whether you enjoy scrambling over rocky outcrops, navigating lush green hills, or soaking in panoramic views, Carrauntoohil offers a diverse hiking experience. Due to rapidly changing weather conditions and erosion, it is recommended to hire a local guide for the mountain unless you're an experienced hiker. There have been over 40 fatalities in the area over the years so it is not a mountain to be taken lightly. I recommend Cesar on AirBnB experiences, a fantastic and knowledgeable guide who even put together a lovely video of our hike to remember the experience. 

The Devil's Ladder is one of the most popular routes to the summit of Carrauntoohil known for its steep ascent and rugged terrain. This was the route we followed for the ascent and is best suited for those seeking an exhilarating experience and are comfortable with a bit of scrambling. While the steep gully requires careful footing and occasional use of hands for balance, it's a safe path as long as you take your time. For our descent, we hiked The Heavenly Gates. This route offers a less strenuous but equally rewarding trek back down the mountain.

Where to Eat in Killarney?

• Bricin Restaurant & Irish Craft Shop - delicious, traditional Irish dishes with a range of vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Luna Coffee & Wine - seasonal savoury and sweet choices on rotation each week. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available, but can't be guaranteed. Check out their Instagram for each week's menu.
• Hannigan's Bar & Restaurant - blending local dishes with global flavours, this charming restaurant is located in the heart of the old town. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.

Where to Stay in Killarney?

Overnight Parking:

• St. Margaret's Road Car Park - large car park close to the centre of town and close to several shops and restaurants.
• Killarney Layby - located a little further outside of Killarney town, this spacious layby is right beside Muckross Lake and perfect for embarking on the Ring of Kerry.
• Ross Road Parking - free overnight parking in a residential area close to the racecourse. 

Campsites:

• Fleming's White Bridge Killarney Holiday Park - on the outskirts of Killarney town, this spacious campsite is located within a valley surrounded by flowers and shrubs. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• Killarney Flesk Caravan & Camping - a centrally located campsite perfect for exploring Ross Castle & Muckross Abbey. Suitable for motorhomes & caravans. Tents allowed but requires an emailed enquiry.
• Fossa Caravan & Camping Park - located only a 12-minute drive from Killarney, this family-run campsite is perfect for exploring nearby lakes and trails. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.

Accommodation:

• The Black Sheep Hostel & Coffee - an eco-friendly adventure hostel in the heart of Killarney, offering organised trips around the area.
• The Heights Hotel - with comfort and a modern style, this hotel is perfectly situated for exploring Killarney and the surrounding area.
• Muckross Park Hotel & Spa - a luxurious and charming hotel located close to Muckross Abbey and lake, with Killarney town around a 10-minute drive away.

Day 17: Baltimore

Travel time: 1 hour 40 minutes (Killarney to Baltimore)

Baltimore, a picturesque fishing village on the southwest coast of Ireland, is located in County Cork. Known for its vibrant maritime atmosphere, Baltimore is a delightful destination for those seeking stunning cliff walks or a marine wildlife sightseeing tour. Over the centuries, Baltimore has grown into a bustling port and trading hub, witnessing significant events, such as the infamous attack by Barbary pirates in the early 17th century. Today, remnants of its historical past can be seen in the architecture and museums that dot the village.

One of the highlights of a visit to Baltimore is the opportunity to take to the water. Various boat tours cater to adventure seekers and nature lovers alike. Popular options include harbour tours around Baltimore's bay with opportunities to see seals, dolphins, and diverse seabird species, and island hopping tours where you can explore nearby islands, such as Sherkin Island and Cape Clear Island. While I unfortunately missed out on a harbour tour due to the morning trip being cancelled, Baltimore Sea Safari seem to be one of the best companies to use for a chance to see whales and dolphins around Baltimore.

Where to Eat in Baltimore?

• The Algiers - described as serving a mosaic of cultural influences, this restaurant takes local ingredients from West Cork and infuses them with global flavours. Serves a range of vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• La Jolie Brise - a charming restaurant overlooking Baltimore Harbour, and specialising in handmade pizzas and fresh seafood. Vegetarian & gluten-free options available.
• Rolf's - set within Rolf's County House, this fine dining restaurant serves a range of dishes on a regular changing menu. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.

Where to Stay in Baltimore?

Overnight Parking:

• Harbour Drive - free roadside parking suitable for larger vehicles, right by the water and located far enough away from the street of houses opposite to not feel intrusive.
• Wild Atlantic Pool & Fitness Centre Car Park - 5 spaces for motorhomes available, paid parking and requires ringing in advance. 
• New Road Car Park - public parking that can be busy during the day. Now has a 2 metre height barrier so not suitable for larger vehicles.

Campsites:

• The Meadow Camping Park - located a 30-minute drive from Baltimore, this is the closest campsite you'll find for visiting Baltimore village. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.

Accommodation:

• Channel View Bed & Breakfast - located in Baltimore, this family-run bed & breakfast overlooks Baltimore Bay and is ideally located for exploring the village.
• Lough Hyne B&B - within walking distance of Lough Hyne and around a 5-minute drive from Baltimore, this quiet bed and breakfast is perfectly located for exploring West Cork.
• Casey's of Baltimore - located within the heart of Baltimore and offering dramatic views over the bay, you have the choice of staying in the hotel, the lodge or the cottage.

Day 18: Kinsale & Cobh

Travel time: 1 hour 20 minutes (Killarney to Kinsale)

Kinsale

Kinsale, in County Cork, is a beautiful harbour town known for its vibrant culture and stunning coastal scenery. With its colourful streets, gourmet restaurants, and maritime charm, Kinsale has become a must-visit destination for travellers exploring Ireland by campervan. Kinsale's history dates back to the 12th century, when it was established as  an Anglo-Norman settlement. The town played a significant role during the Anglo-Irish War and is famously known for the Siege of Kinsale in 1601, part of the battle against England's conquest of Gaelic Ireland. 

While in Kinsale, consider visiting the iconic star-shaped-fort, Charles Fort, which overlooks Kinsale Harbour. Visitors can wander through its well-preserved ruins, enjoy panoramic views of the harbour, and learn about its historical significance. Perhaps you'd enjoy exploring Desmond Castle, also known as the "Wine Castle". Dating back to the 16th century, Desmond Castle served as a customs house and a wine store. The surrounding countryside of Kinsale also offers beautiful hiking and cycling routes with stunning coastal scenery.

Cobh

Cobh, a charming town in County Cork perched on a hillside, is known for its connection to the Titanic and its picturesque seascapes. Cobh's history stretches back to ancient times, but it gained significant attention during the 19th century as a major port of embarkation for those emigrating to America. The town's historical importance dramatically increased with the arrival of the Titanic in April 1912, where it made its last port of call before the ill-fated journey. The town's maritime history continues to resonate, with numerous museums and centres dedicated to preserving it past.

Cobh's stunning skyline is dominated by the iconic St. Coleman's Cathedral, with its impressive Gothic Revival architecture and towering spire. The town is known for its colourful architecture, which can be noticed instantly upon arrival. Perhaps the most photographed scene in Cobh is the famous "Deck of Cards", a street of coloured houses perched along a slanted uphill street. A fantastic viewpoint belongs to the private garden of a local house at the top of the hill, where entry is allowed for photo opportunities, though a little donation is always appreciated.

Just a short ferry ride from Cobh is Spike Island, home to an 18th-century fortress and former prison. In the heart of Cobh is the Queenstown Story, an exceptional historical attraction. This engaging exhibition walks visitors through Cobh's history as it pertains to the emigrant experience and its importance to linking Ireland to the world. For a broader story of emigration from Ireland, consider visiting the Cobh Heritage Centre. Their exhibitions tell the stories of many Irish people who left their homeland in search of a better life abroad.

Where to Eat in Cobh?

• Seasalt Café & Deli - a charming spot on Cobh's waterfront, with delicious and innovative brunch dishes. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.
• Titanic Bar & Grill - in the heart of Cobh, this restaurant offers a unique experience to dine in a historic setting. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• Jacob Ladder's Restaurant - located within the WatersEdge Hotel with views of Cork Harbour, this restaurant offers dishes with a modern bistro style. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.

Where to Stay in Cobh?

Overnight Parking:

• Cobh Cathedral Car Park - paid parking in a large car park, directly behind the cathedral. 
• Cork Harbour Roadside Parking - free parking by the harbour, around a 15-minute walk into the heart of Cobh. 
• Lynch's Quay Roadside Parking - limited paid parking along the pier, with views over the water.

Campsites:

• Jasmine Villa Caravan & Camping Park - situated around a 20-minute drive from Cobh, this peaceful site is the closest campsite to Cobh you'll find. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• Clonvilla Caravan & Camping Park - located near the coast and around a 35-minute drive from Cobh, this small and family-friendly campsite is suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.

Accommodation:

• Commodore Hotel - ideally located in the centre of Cobh, overlooking the harbour, this hotel is in a great spot for visiting the town's attractions.
• West Beach House - homestay with private bathrooms, sea views, and perfectly located for exploring Cobh.
• WatersEdge Hotel - located right on Cobh's waterfront, this hotel offers breathtaking views and comfortable accommodation. 

Day 19-21: Dublin

Travel time: 2 hours 50 minutes (Cobh to Dublin)

Optional Route: Dublin Via Wicklow Mountains

On your journey from Cobh to Dublin, consider taking the scenic route and driving through the Wicklow Mountains. The Wicklow Mountains are a breathtaking range situated just a stone's throw away from Dublin. Travelling through the Wicklow Mountains via the Sally Gap route is an unmissable journey. The Sally Gap is a popular scenic drive that weaves through the heart of the Wicklow Mountains and takes around 1-2 hours to complete, with stops along the way. Typically, the route takes you from Roundwood to Glendalough. For a more direct route towards Dublin, I started in Glendalough and ended the drive at Lough Tay, missing out on Roundwood due to time restrictions. 

At the beginning of my shortened Sally Gap route, you'll get to see Glenmacnass Waterfall, one of the tallest waterfalls in Ireland. Cascading down an 80m cliff, this waterfall is an ideal spot for photography. There are several laybys along the road to pull over and enjoy the view. While not a stopping point, the Sally Gap itself is a cross-road along the Old Military Road. You can take a quick detour east to visit Lough Tay. Also known as the Guinness Lake, due to its resemblance to a pint of Guinness, Lough Tay is a beautiful body of water worth seeing.

The full Sally Gap takes you on to Roundwood from here but, alternatively, you can head back the way you came and head north towards Dublin once you return to the Sally Gap cross-road. Along the way, you'll follow parts of the historic Military Road, built in the 19th century by the British Army in the wake of the 1798 rebellion to assert control and subdue rebels.

Dublin

The vibrant capital of Ireland, Dublin is an intriguing blend of historic charm and modern energy. With its cobbled streets, iconic landmarks, and welcoming locals, the city offers a wealth of experiences that reflect its rich past and lively present. Dublin's history dates back over a thousand years when it was founded as a Viking settlement following invasion in the 9th century.

Dublin: A Brief Overview

The name is derived from the Irish " Dubh Linn", meaning black pool, which refers to the dark waters at the mouth of the River Poddle. Over the centuries, Dublin grew into a significant centre for trade and politics, especially during the Anglo-Norman rule in the 12th century. The 20th century brought significant political change, culminating in Dublin's status as the capital of an independent Ireland in 1922. Today, Dublin stands as a testament to resilience, distinct culture, and historical significance.

Dublin is known for its literary heritage and has produced an impressive array of writers, including James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, and Seamus Heaney. The city celebrates its literary legacy through festivals and events. Additionally, Dublin boasts a lively arts scene, with numerous galleries, theatres, and music venues. The city's pubs are also cultural landmarks, known for traditional Irish music sessions and as gathering places where stories, song, and laughter flow freely.

Dublin: Top Attractions

Home to Ireland's oldest university, Trinity College houses the stunning Book of Kells, an illustrated manuscript that dates back to the 9th century. The world-famous Guinness Storehouse is a must-visit attraction that tells the story of Ireland's most iconic beverage, Guinness. Enjoy a tasting experience and soak in panoramic views of Dublin from the Gravity Bar. Explore Dublin Castle, a historic complex with beautiful gardens, state apartments, and medieval vaults. Take a leisurely stroll through Dublin's historic streets, including Grafton Street and Temple Bar, filled with galleries, shops, and lively pubs.

Dublin is home to a myriad of museums, including EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum which takes you on an unforgettable journey through Ireland's history and personal emigration tales, and Kilmainham Gaol Museum, a former prison that housed some of the most famous leaders in Irish history. Booking well in advance is always recommended for Dublin museums due to the sheer popularity of these venues.

Where to Eat in Dublin?

• Old Town Café - a relaxing and charming café serving sandwiches, salad & homemade pastries. Limited vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options.
• The Saucy Cow - located in the heart of Dublin, this colourful and lively restaurant serves 100% vegan burgers, fries & wraps. Doesn't appear to offer gluten-free options.
• Wilde - a vintage glamour inspired restaurant serving the best of Irish produce. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options available.

Where to Stay in Dublin?

Overnight Parking:

• Ship Street Little Roadside Parking - perfectly located by Temple Bar, free parking from Saturday night and all day Sunday, with the rest of the week requiring payment.
• Fitzwilliam Square Roadside Parking - unrestricted parking from Saturday night and all day Sunday. Paid parking for the rest of the week.
• Cambridge Road Roadside Parking - free roadside parking a little outside Dublin city centre. Bus and tram stops are around a 10-minute walk away. Hire bikes are also nearby for a 15-minute bike ride into the city.

Campsites:

• Camac Valley Tourist Caravan and Camping Park - a 35-minute drive or 40-minute bus ride into Dublin's city centre, this campsite is perfect for exploring all Dublin has to offer. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.
• Lynders Mobile Home Park - located on the coastline and around a 35-minute drive from the heart of Dublin, this campsite is in a great spot for visiting Dublin Bay & Howth, as well as the city. Suitable for motorhomes, caravans & tents.

Accommodation:

• Abbey Court Hostel - situated in the heart of Dublin, this hostel offers affordable private and shared rooms, and a bar to enjoy a €5.50 pint of Guinness.
• The Temple Bar Lane - located in Dublin's vibrant Temple Bar, this budget-friendly hotel is perfect for exploring Dublin's lively scene.
• The Morgan Hotel - one of the most centrally located hotels, this modern and comfortable hotel is a great base for visiting Dublin.

More Northern Ireland & Ireland Inspiration

If something in this road trip itinerary doesn't appeal to you or you've already been there and done that, I've got you covered with some extra Irish inspiration for your travels.

Derry

Located in Northern Ireland, Derry, or Londonderry as it's formally called, boasts the best-preserved medieval walls in Europe. A walk along these iconic walls offers stunning views of the city and insight into its turbulent history. Be sure to stop by the eight original gates and the impressive towers along the way. Gain a deeper understanding of Derry's complex political history by visiting the Museum of Free Derry. This poignant museum highlights the events of the Troubles, particularly the civil rights movement and the Bloody Sunday incident, fostering greater civil consciousness.

Slieve Donard & the Mourne Mountains

The Mourne Mountains, found in Northern Ireland, are famous for their rugged beauty and ideal hiking trails. Slieve Donard (850m), the highest peak in Northern Ireland, is a popular trek that offers panoramic views of the region. The trail takes around 4 hours and is an unmissable adventure in Northern Ireland.

For a more leisurely experience, there are multiple trails suited for varying skill levels. Enjoy shorter walks, such as the Spelga Dam loop, which combines natural beauty with peaceful surroundings. Keep an eye out for local wildlife and rich flora along the way.

Connemara National Park

Located near Galway, Connemara National Park is a stunning treasure trove for nature lovers and adventurers in Ireland. With over 2,000 hectares of breathtaking mountains, grasslands, and bogs, it's perfect for hiking. The Diamond Hill loop trail offers a moderately challenging yet rewarding hike with striking views of the coastline. While you'll see many Connemara ponies in the countryside around Connemara National Park, this native breed to Ireland is not a wild breed and unfortunately won't be running freely around the area. While in Connemara, make sure to visit Kylemore Abbey. Nestled in the Connemara landscape, this Gothic-style abbey and its Victorian walled garden are breathtakingly beautiful. Take time to explore the grounds and learn about its history.

Tipperary

Home to the Rock of Cashel, one of Ireland's most spectacular historic sites, Tipperary is a wonderful place in Ireland to visit. The Rock of Cashel is an ancient fortress featuring a round tower, Cormac's Chapel, and an old cathedral, all of which offer insight into Ireland's early Christian past. Consider taking a food tour around Tipperary to sample local cheeses, artisan breads, and scrumptious deserts. Tipperary is also known for its apple orchards, so don't miss the opportunity to taste some of Ireland's finest ciders.

Aran Islands

The Aran Islands are an idyllic getaway from the hustle and bustle of modern life in Ireland. Inis Meain, one of the three islands, is less touristy and offers a glimpse into traditional Irish life. Rent a bike or enjoy long walks to explore the rugged landscapes and ancient stone structures, like the famous Dun Conor. On the islands, you can witness traditional crafts like knitting and weaving in action. Visit local shops to find handmade Aran sweaters and other artisanal goods, making for perfect souvenirs.

To Summarise

Travelling through Ireland and Northern Ireland by campervan is one of the most captivating ways to experience the enchanting landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture of these two regions. The freedom to roam, immerse yourself in breathtaking scenery, engage with local cultures, and savour regional culinary delights, creates an unparalleled adventure. Embrace this unique mode of travel and embark on an enlightening experience that highlights the beauty and diversity of both Northern Ireland and Ireland.

By following this Explore by Nature road trip itinerary and exploring Northern Ireland and Ireland by campervan, you'll be treated to some of the best these regions have to offer. It's truly an unmissable journey that will be one of the highlights of all your travels. If you're looking for another great road trip itinerary, check out the Explore by Nature guide to one week in Scotland.

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